They give women a Carriage and put the face. It does not give way to the torcs.
The parade Louis Vuitton last winter, with its four old style elevators which were the dummies in the look of domineering maid, marked the spirits. Two seasons later, he left a trace in the shop: the collar Lock Me. This col Claudine gold metal is becoming a best-seller and has several variations. He lent the pea of Yayoi Kusama, comes out in a version that is paved with black pearls, this season, or with big multicolored rhinestones for the next cruise collection… “After theparade Fetish of the fall-winter 2011-2012, this piece fully embodies femininity according to Marc Jacobs: graphic lines for the discipline that contrast with the sweetness of the finishes in gold metal”, according to the malletier.
Like the proposal of Louis Vuitton, ras neck collars are noticeable at the moment. At Dior, to the first Raf Simons couture show, a model flashed repeatedly. Designed by Camille Miceli (in charge of the jewels of the House), it consists of a latticed structure stung pearls that arises between the neck and décolleté. “He is a top version of the layout Dior necklace, we explain avenue Montaigne. In general, parades of haute couture jewelry are not sold in stores, but it sparked a lot of requests and will be part of the spring, available in February. »
Fetish or signature couture at Hervé Van der Straeten, claiming instead the conquering allure of the torque. “This gem gives a strength of warrior women who wear. He is more demonstrative, more sculptural in essence as a long necklace, which is smoother and easier to live on a daily basis,”says the creator. This does not, on the contrary, to mobilize all its energy to imagine comfortable and portable, parts like her Ribbon necklace. As its name suggests, this model, logical extension of the headline that meets a great success, is shaped with a broad hammered metal wire that fits naturally around the neck.
An armor ornament
Sylvie Chin also give the metaphor of the adornment of armor with his spectacular collar shield, slightly bulging throat, made of braided gold.Ditto on the Chanel show, with silver breastplates blackened and raw stones that seem to protect the bust. “These jewels are weapons to face the crisis with elegance”, advance Dauphine de Jerphanion, stylist accessories woman at the Bon Marché in Paris, in the same register.
Their common point is to body with clothing and to maintain confusion. In some brands, like Ralph Lauren, the necklace is directly integrated to the dress or top. Sophia 203, on the other hand, does not use metal or stone but weaves jewelry, including the torcs, like embroidery. A technique that maintains this proximity. “These breastplates dressed women. They espouse the neckline but must operate in harmony with the outfit,”says Marc Deloche, who has created three models in cut off money that draws a modern lace.
Finally, Dauphine de Jerphanion sees a more general trend of nesting of jewelry and clothing. “The continuity between the two is more and more present, like the headlines that are a form of fashion. Metal walk on all accessories, belts to hats through collars”, she concludes.