We have previously written about the Drake at Manolo to London extended its business by buying the two venerable British skjorttillverkarna Cleeve of London and Rayner & Sturges. This initially led to Drake’s last winter began selling the first ready-made shirts under the name Cleeve for Drakes. Now six months later have Drakes launched two new skjorttjänster.
The first is a clean measure sewing service where customers who so wish can get a unique shirt sewn with an individually designed pattern. This can be done only if the time is booked and is done on the spot in the company’s only store, on Clifford Street 3 in London. A bit more accessible is instead the MTO service launched recently on the firm’s website. Here, customers can design their own shirt based on a number of different options such as cloth, cuffs, collar and sleeve length.
At the time of launch to offer Drake’s all customers at a 25% discount when you let produce one or more shirts under this service. This offer applies to the entire July out and the customer enter the discount code PD25MTO at the payment so pulled this off of.
Of course elections fewer than when sewing for MTO measure but an MTO, or made-to-order, is an excellent option for those who fit into the company’s existing models and sizes but wish to have it personalized with only minor adjustments. The price for this service is £ 205 without embroidery.
The customer may at the order go through 8 steps of thedressexplorer before the white shirt is ready for approval. In the first step, the selected fabric. Here are mainly classic fabrics in cotton Poplin and oxford. But also a very fine chambraytyg as well as some choice of linen. Cleeve is known to work only with the top fabric suppliers so none of the options are some budget fabrics.
The next step is the collar that is selected. The collar that Drakes themselves by default are here to choose and then called semi-cutaway. It is specially made by the company to fit perfectly with a knotted tie.
Then it’s time to choose the sleeve length and choice of cuff. This is the advantage of HUMAN FACTORS that can have long or short sleeves if you so wish.
The next step is the back looks to be designed. In our view, this will be a very interesting optional ence of a “reverse plisséring”, or inverted pleat as they themselves call it. This is a practical detail that makes the shirt can be cut a bit tighter but with no loss of mobility. A perfect detail if, for example, are very down and write with your arms forward. There are similar details on many tweedkavajer that have so-called action shoulder. Then there’s week at the shoulder in order to keep a gun without the jacket tightens over the shoulders.
When the back is complete, it is time to choose the design for the body. After this is done the choice regarding the pocket or not. Finally, for a small extra charge the customer a personal embroidery on the shirt.
When the order is made is sent the order to the factory in Chard, Somerset, and delivery takes about 4-6 weeks. Cleeves factory is one of the last skjortfabrikerna still sew in England and the level of craftsmanship is very high. This makes for natural reasons that while the price level is located in the upper segment and compared with the better Italian manufacturers. In Italy you get for this price a line visible hand sewn elements and details. Cleeves shirts fit them better that prefers the British style. They are precise in dimensions, have strong seams and buttons that you most likely will never lose. The collars are stitched and glued inserts, lacks the buttons of the best Pearl and fabrics mentioned above of very high quality.
In short, a classic shirt with a little flair.
Fabrics from, among others, Thomas Mason, along with different choices of cuffs and collars.
The undersigned ordered a shirt from the service in a light blue oxford quality.
Slim fit without being tight with a sleeve length extended by a few cm from the default.