Anglers: How to Make a Movement Sparkle

Finishing The Edges In The Clockwork, Such As Audemars Piguet

The beveling is a particularly complex nature of finissage, which has a large share in the beauty of the movement. The edges of the individual parts of a clockwork are specially worked with the angling, also known as bending, to create beautiful light reflexes, which emphasize the outline of the movement components. The technique is to break the edges between the surface and the flanks and form a chamfer or chamfer, which is subsequently polished.

The inclination of the bevel is usually 45 degrees. This process is carried out by watchmakers, for example, in serial production of CNC milling machines, since they operate cleanly and uniformly. If the number of pieces is particularly high, punching machines are used. This considerably shortens the working time and results are one hundred percent identical. Artistic works can hardly be found here. The angling is applied not only for aesthetic reasons, but also improves the function of the movement. For burrs, burrs produced during production are eliminated. The subsequent polishing compresses the material and thus reduces corrosion.

Audemars Piguet Places Emphasis On Manual Angling Of The Edges In The Movement

The mechanical methods, however, have their limitations. For example, no re-entrant corner can be formed, since this is rounded off automatically during milling and subsequently has to be machined manually with a file. Traditional manufactories such as Audemars Piguetattach great importance to manual angling, and their watchmakers make their own for themselves, as no special training in watchmaking schools is offered for fishing. At Audemars Piguet, a trainee learns about a year until he has mastered the bevels well. But even after that, he must always improve his technique during his career. A watchmaker needs up to ten hours to process a workpiece. Various files, grinding stones and polishing steels are used.

Angling Is Carried Out In Several, Time-Consuming Steps

After a surface treatment of the flanks, the bevels are formed or finished with a file specially cut to the workpiece. The watchmaker then removes the filings left in the transverse direction by filing in the longitudinal direction. It is important to ensure that no distortions occur. The surface is ground and then processed with increasingly fine sanding files. The edges and corners must not be rounded. Thorough cleaning removes the workpiece from all grinding residues so that the workpiece can not get scratches. The subsequent polish grinding is a polishing process, in which the material is smoothed with a tool of hardened steel. Finally, the polishing is further refined by machining the workpiece with a polishing wood until it reaches the final gloss.

The bevel or chamfer connects the upper side of the workpiece to the flank side. Each piece has its own forms – according to its function or the overall visual image of the movement. Depending on the shape, different corners are created: inward, rounded or outgoing corners. In the Haute Horlogerie, the corners are often increased, without a real necessity. However, the incorporation of corners is particularly difficult and thus the expression of high watchmaking art.

The Incorporation Of Corners Into Clockwork Parts Is Particularly Difficult

The most difficult is to make the reinserting corner. This occurs when two chamfers meet inwards. With an accurate tip, this corner can only be done by hand. If the tip is missing, the expert speaks of a rounded corner. Their difficulty is much lower. Therefore, milling machines can also execute these corners. The outgoing corner is the inverted shape of the re-entrant, that is, two chamfers form an outwardly tapering angle. If the corner is of high quality, the corner is absolutely pointed and not blunt or rounded. These three designations are often also found when the impingement of two flanks is to be described. Their finishing is as complex as the angling and requires the utmost care. If the flanks are not treated cleanly and evenly, this also has an effect on the bevel.

If the workpieces have been produced by the stamping method, the pieces already have regular flanks. Therefore, it is not usual to work on the flanks at mid-price watches, reported by In the world of Haute Horlogerie, which also includes Audemars Piguet, the flanks are still individually worked out and refined by satinizing in their optics. This is done exclusively by hand, since no machine achieves the desired quality.

Before satinizing, the watchmaker removes all unsightly approaches and production traces.Subsequently, he processes the flank with different files until it is absolutely flat and regular.For a corrugated flank inevitably leads to a corrugated chamfer. As with angling, the watchmaker also uses a variety of grinding wheels and sanding files for satinizing.Alternatively, a diamond grinding wheel or synthetic stones are used on a micromotor.However, more material is removed, which makes correcting errors more difficult. Once the desired satin finish has been achieved, the workpiece is ready for the final step in finishing: high-gloss polishing.