More familiar with healthy Chantal Thomass as ready-to-wear shops, the concept of lacing abandons this season his sexy trappings in favor of a more gentle nature, oscillating between modernity and “casualness”…
In fashion, some recipes have the knack to work almost every time. One thinks in particular made to extract a detail of its original context and treat it on a tone being foreign to him, to give him a new nature. In recent years, we saw the veil and grafted to a cap (abandoning its retro DNA in favor of a casual chic style) and the leopard print leaving his glamor-obsolete-vulgar finery for a more urban nature (Charlotte Olympia).
In recent seasons, it was the turn of lacing – familiar from the world of corsetry – attempting to change its DNA. A mutation driven by Raf Simons who, during the parade Christian Dior Fall / Winter 2014-2015, slightly cintra its frock coats and via some colorful lacing at the sides for a striking effect of modernity. Under his fingers, lace loses sensuality via electro colors, while the clothing appears as a subtle fusion of tailoring and femininity.
It was not more to start the trend: the following season, designers took over the concept to the decline in their collections. Victoria Beckham and chooses to divert the principle of lacing “lingerie” in combining the cozy knit fashion (his long ribbed sweater laced on the side by a wide knit lace was also one of the most successful parts of the casuals season).
By oversizing laces grosgrain and marrying them to the way jeans jacket, Frida Giannini conjugua to share the idea seventies fashion (and gave birth to transition to one of the most photographed pieces in the fashion series season). For his part, Phillip Lim conferred lacing ultra contemporary dimension by treating it as an elegant scar plying along a small casual dress.
Finally, others – such as Nicolas Gesquière or Riccardo Tisci – were unable to convert the try: too thin, too delicate and associated with very feminine pieces, their lacing not broke enough codes to actually appear relevant.
In practice, those who want to indulge in this new trend should be careful not flatter the original nature of corsetry lacing. Forgotten translucent material and lewd lacing: the 2015 lacing comes in cozy fashion, sportswear, funky or conceptual, and especially not in sexy mode. And if the lacing suggests the skin, it must be done with subtlety, as in 3.1 Phillip Lim and Isabel Marant…